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Eastern Algarve
Alcoutim
Alcoutim is a pretty village on the banks of the Guadiana river, about 40km north of Vila Real de Santo António. As long ago as 2,500BC the region around Alcoutim attracted people because of the deposits of copper, iron and manganese and in Roman times a number of mines were established. The ores were smelted locally and then shipped down the Guadiana to the Mediterranean.
The remains of a 14th century castle can be seen on the hillside overlooking Alcoutim and now houses a small archaeoligical museum. Similar castle remains can be seen on the hill on the Spanish side of the river, overlooking the village of São Lucas do Guadiana. They are visible reminders of the times when Portugal and Castile were at war with each other, and it was in the middle of the river opposite Alcoutim that Kings Henrique and Fernando I signed a peace treaty.
Alcoutim is a hillside town of cobbled streets, small squares and a paved promenade along the river front which is overlooked by a handful of cafes and restaurants.The river is quite narrow at this point and various sailing boats and river craft float gently on the waters, with a backdrop of rolling, green hills. The church near the river front originates from the 16th century, but has been re-built on a number of occasions. Over the porch are the arms of the Marquises of Vila Real and Counts of Alcoutim.
Castro Marim
Castro Marim has, historically, been an important town because of its position near the banks of the Guadiana and its proximity to the coast. The remains of the first settlements in the area date from about 5000BC and it is thought likely that at this time the town was an island surrounded by shallow waters. For thousands of years it was a port that offered shelter to the ships that sailed the Guadiana collecting metals and other wares from Alcoutim and was also connected to Lisbon by a Roman road that ran parallel to the river.
It has also been important strategically in the defence of the Algarve. During the 14th century the soldiers of the 'Order of Christ,' who replaced the Knights Templar, had their headquarters in Castro Marim. At the time the border dispute with Castile was ongoing and the castle was very well positioned with views across the countryside in all directions and particularly across the Rio Guadiana. It fell into disuse when it was replaced by new fortifications in the 17th century - the fort of São Sebastião, on the opposite hill above the town.
The remains of the castle in Castro Marim, (which dates from 10th to 12th century), stand on one hill overlooking the town and the Fort of São Sebastião on the opposite hill, with the houses of the town in between. From the castle you can get a great view of the river, the salt pans (which are an important part of the economy of this area) and the sea in the distance.
Tavira
This distinctive town has a greater variety of architectural detail
than most. Both banks of the River Gilao, which passes through the centre,
are lined by impressive houses with baroque window frames and balustraded
parapets. Wealth from the Portugese colonies was lavished on Tavira's
numerous churches, whose turrets and belfries add interest to the skyline.
There are many charming restaurants along the river bank, and don't forget
to take a boat trip from here to the Ilha
de Tavira.
Mertola
Pretty little Mértola is a riverside town with a long history as a trading port, and strolling around its sleepy cobbled lanes is like entering a time warp. Its white parish church, topped with conical decorations, was converted from a mosque in the 12th century, and still retains a strong Islamic feel in its horseshoe arches and mihrab (prayer niche) facing east to Mecca.
Above the church looms the town's ruined 13th century castle, with bird's-eye views of the entire town and river, and maybe even of the rare black stork or the lesser kestrel, a splendid falcon that is near extinction.
There are several small musems scattered around town with Roman and Islamic finds, including the country's best collection of Portuguese Islamic art made up of ceramics, coins, and jewelry. The "Islamic Festival" that takes place every two years in May recreates the Islamic period of the town with music, exhibitions, and a street market. Those who wish to experience it may reach Mértola by bus from Beja.
Vila Real de Santo Antonio
Built in just five months in the late 18th century, Vila Real has
remained in a time warp in contrast to the Spanish city of Ayamonte
across the river. Don't miss the opportunity to take the river ferry
to Ayamonte (see
Spain).
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